OPENING a restaurant in a competitive market is certainly a daunting task.|And being hit with a biting review not long after launching can potentially make it an uphill battle.
Damian Capone, however, is a firm believer in the age-old adage that every cloud has a silver lining.
With the support of his mum Maria, he is determined to overcome the early setback suffered by his family-run Peppermint Grove restaurant, Little Cloud, and continue to stand by what he refers to as ‘modern innovative cuisine’.
“We have a strong belief in what we are doing and Damian has a real passion for it,” Maria said.
“We didn’t believe in changing the name or the food and hiding behind it.”
While some may dub Damian’s style as inspired by molecular gastronomy, Maria defines it as sous vide, which essentially involves slowly cooking portions of food in vacuum-sealed plastic bags in a temperature-controlled water bath.
Some foodies may recall American reality TV show Top Chef’s fourth season finalist Richard Blais – renowned for his boundary-pushing ways – utilise the method in his weekly culinary concoctions, from salmon sous vide to pork belly sous vide.
It is a cooking process that is said to have originated in France in the 1970s and was subsequently adopted by industrial caterers and chefs elsewhere in the world, including Spanish innovator Ferran Adria, who is widely regarded as the master of the movement and famed for experimental flavours and textures at his restaurant, El Bulli.
As for Damian, he is an unashamedly unqualified chef with an arts degree.
Maria said he became inspired by the technique while cooking at his parents’ Italian-style restaurant in Spearwood.
While father Carmelo and mum Maria focused on dishing out traditional fare based on recipes passed down by Carmelo’s Sicilian mother, Damian could be found experimenting in the back kitchen. Last year, he and Maria travelled overseas for four months, visiting a range of establishments in Italy, France, Spain, Turkey and Syria.
Among those he says he draws inspiration from is Catalonia’s famed Michelin-starred El Celler de Can Roca, owned by Spain’s Roca brothers, themselves renowned exponents of sous vide cooking.
But what can Perth punters expect from Damian’s own menu at Little Cloud?
Well, there is the option of a five and eight-course menu (which changes monthly), with offerings such as red mullet and its crystallised scales with powdered ricotta and a bloody mary; and slow-cooked breast and leg of spatchcock with creamless cream of ham and sautéed broad beans. On the dessert front (Maria’s domain), there could be a blood orange, almond and pistachio cake or perhaps a lemon peel sorbet with wild mulberry puree.
While Damian’s toughest critics – the paying public– will determine the future of this ambitious restaurateur’s little dining room, Maria said her son found himself encouraged by one of the world’s most-talked about chefs.
“Damian has sent Ferran Adria emails and he replies very promptly. He too experienced criticism early on in his career and he’s been very supportive.”